This is me at dinner outside at a sidewalk table. It's chilly at night, but most places have overhead heaters and some even provide blankets for people at sidewalk tables. We generally opt for those because people smoke like chimneys here!
Coming from Seattle, where non-smoking crusades are practically a way of life, it's been interesting to adjust. Even non-smoking seats usually just mean people aren't smokin "at your table". :-)
Guess they haven't seen the research on the whole secondhand smoke issue. (Yeah right) We've been eating dinner really late most nights: like 9-10:30pm, partly due to the wacky sleep schedule and partly because that's when people eat here. Most eateries open in the morning for a few hours, then close midday or just serve beverages or light food, then open for dinner at 7pm. The stores have equally interesting schedules, many of them opening from 9-12pm, closing, then re-opening 3-7pm. France has a 35 hour work week instead of the 40 (or more) in the U.S. Just a different way of life here.